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Wednesday 7th January 
11:59 am
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Nelson's Column
September
Of Poles and Twiglets 9th September 2006
A new cuisine for the sophisticated London diner to experiment with
Ahmet is Turkish-English. He was born in Willesden, raised in Istanbul, then moved back to join his family here ten years ago. His shop, The Hamilton Stores, 2 minutes from my front door, sells fresh vegetables, household goods, inexspensive booze, and newspapers, from eight until midnight every day. It also has lots of little exotic items that reflect his Southern European heritage: crunchy sweet halva, a huge selection of fresh spices, bright tubes of Harissa.

A few months ago, these were joined, as they have been in almost every shop in the capital, by Okocim lager, aspic (last used in an English kitchen around 1930), a long shelf of pickles and perserves, and a large selection of salted pork products that sit oddly next to the Halal meat counter. A hand-written sign in the window informs the customer ‘Polski Sklep’ – Ahmet doesn’t know what it means, but he’s seen it on the windows of Polish-owned Delis and cornershops, and reckons it’s worth a go.

The reason for the presence of all these odd new things is obvious to everyone: London has just seen the largest immigration in its history. The most extreme tabloid estimates suggest that as many as half-a-million Poles have passed through the doors of Victoria Coach Station, and while we should take these estimates with a large pinch of paprika, Londoners do clearly have a whole new cuisine to learn.

My first experiments with cooking Polish (buy a few ingredients, hit google for recipes, invite sympathetic friends round) were not a great success. On the plus side, it did provide a wonderful excuse to drink vodka like students, and the Okocim was a cut above the horrible fizzy stuff that is the traditional drink of the British male. Unfortunately, a portion of Kielbasa Sausage with Sauerkraut and Bacon was delicious, but slightly higher in calories than a Double McLard Burger with Fat-Dipped Fries (or whatever those obese kids are eating nowadays) and the sour cream-smothered blinis were just as bad.

For this reason, Polish food is clearly on course to replace light, pretty Japanese dishes at fashionable dinner parties and £150-a-head restaurants. With the London Fashion Awards planning on banning unhealthily thin models, a big plate of duck-fat soup is the only way all the anorexic Twiglet-women of London Society will be able to put on enough weight to be allowed onstage. And for the rest of us, it offers an excellent excuse for getting drunk. Na zdrowie, everyone!
Return to Bender
“Drinkers Corner, Brockwell Park, Herne Hill” received its first ever official delivery of mail this month. A postcard sent by a London drunk on holiday by the sea was successfully delivered to his chums sitting in the outer corner of a south London park. Penned by “Pete”, the missive informed its recipients that the sender was “p***ed as a newt” and “having a great time on the coast”.
On the Thatchwalk
London’s biggest display of fashion trends had an unexpected muse this year. The tailored suits, square shoulders, crisp shirts and subdues tones that adorned the runways of London Fashion Week paid tribute to the clothing Conservative of Margaret Thatcher and the 80s. Shoulder pad anyone?
Height Club
After standing empty and unused for at least a decade, London’s iconic, Grade II listed Centre Point building has won itself a makeover. The Tottenham Court Road tower is to have its top three floors turned into private members’ club, complete with restaurant and vertigo-enhancing views. Better sign up fast – celebs including Graham Norton and Stephen Fry are already eating into the members list.
December 2008
23rd December
January is on the Horizon
20th December
Merry Christmas
November 2008
26th November
All The World's A Stage
20th November
Surviving the Crunch
October 2008
24th October
Boris v Jingjing
17th October
Soaps in Pole Position
September 2008
23rd September
Chips too Chavvy for Chelsea
16th September
The London Restaurant Awards
August 2008
26th August
No Smoking, No Ducks, No Barbecues
20th August
The Olympics
July 2008
24th July
Sandwiched Out
17th July
The Show Ain't Over 'Til the Fat Lady's on Page 3
June 2008
26th June
Love All at Wimbledon
16th June
Miller Puts the Heat on Tennant
May 2008
27th May
Booze Banned on Buses
20th May
Same Again?
April 2008
23rd April
By George
11th April
Back to the 80s
March 2008
28th March
How do You Solve A Problem Like Medea?
20th March
Flight Fantastic
February 2008
20th February
Dark, Satanic Turnmills
6th February
A Diamond in the Drink
January 2008
21st January
People Wanted for Plinth
14th January
Boo! Hiss!
December 2007
28th December
Tate That - A Hirst for Art
20th December
Christmas Shopping
November 2007
27th November
Mind the Gap
26th November
London On A Tray
October 2007
26th October
Leaving the Station
14th October
The Sky's the Limit
September 2007
26th September
The Play Within A Play
19th September
Fashion, Frocks and Celeb Shocks
12th September
Saying Tanks for the Mammaries
August 2007
24th August
Heathrow under Siege
17th August
Gormless
10th August
Losing Face
July 2007
24th July
Are We Reaching Boiling Point Yet This Summer?
13th July
Red Ken versus Blonde Boris
June 2007
22nd June
Last Orders at the Fag Machine
11th June
London the Musical
May 2007
21st May
What Lurks Beneath
10th May
The Stuff Dreams Are Made Of
April 2007
27th April
London’s Walk on the Wild Side
20th April
Stand Behind the Yellow Line
13th April
Like Water for Chocolate
March 2007
23rd March
So, Another Magazine
16th March
Avoiding iContact
February 2007
23rd February
Sex and Art...
16th February
C-Charge Protest Fails to Bring Down Government
9th February
Live Earth London
January 2007
26th January
A Vote for Shilpa is a Vote for Britain
18th January
Carriage on up the West End
December 2006
29th December
Food for Thought
22nd December
A Poisonous Marketing Campaign
15th December
In for a Penny, In for Five Pounds
November 2006
17th November
Big Department Stores Leave Santa Out in the Cold
10th November
Failing to Save the World
October 2006
27th October
Frozen Prawns and Melting Icecaps
20th October
Predatory Pelicans and Happy Woodland Folk
13th October
Hope at last for east end of Oxford Street
September 2006
16th September
Lite the Blue Paper and Stand Well Back
9th September
Of Poles and Twiglets
August 2006
25th August
Free Fares For the Fat and the Fashionable
11th August
London Friendly
4th August
Archway To Organic Heaven
July 2006
21st July
London - Celebrity Frat House
7th July
Out of the Galleries into the Streets
June 2006
23rd June
Mayors, Nightmares and Marias
16th June
Downright Rude in Paris and London
9th June
Enter the Inferno
May 2006
26th May
Curvaceous Border
12th May
Vegging Out
April 2006
21st April
The Camden Crawl
17th April
Down the Pan
13th April
I Want to Break Free
9th April
Big Brother seems to have been left in a bar somewhere
7th April
Don't Box Me In
March 2006
24th March
Political Correctness Reaches New Heights
February 2006
24th February
A Stadium's Tale: Cup Final Goes West
17th February
Modern Musicals are Rubbish
10th February
The City-Side Alliance
January 2006
20th January
February Sales
20th January
Moby Sick
13th January
Glass Half Full
3rd January
Three Cheers for the Tube Station Workers
December 2005
22nd December
January Bites
16th December
A Remarkable Year
November 2005
25th November
And a Partridge in a JCB
11th November
Driving Miss Sadie
4th November
Spam, Spam, Spammity-Spam, Shakespeare, Zorro, Chico and Rasputin
October 2005
28th October
Trick or Treat?
21st October
We Don't Mind a Little Delay...
14th October
Final Resting Place for Young British Artists
September 2005
16th September
Just a small urn for me, please barman
9th September
DRINK! DRINK! DRINK!